Have a die cutting machine such as the Silhouette Cameo? Make these cute floating Christmas ornaments by inserting a clear vinyl transparency, vinyl letters, a bow and some fake snow. It super quick, easy and fun. Visit www.HopeYoder.com for more ideas.
Start with the supplies... Get the vinyl transparency cut out here.
Cut any shapes or names you want from Vinyl and apply to the transparency.
Roll it up and insert it into the clear bulb. Add some fake snow and a bow at the top.
Just finished a new kitchen towel for Christmas. I have combined our Bizzy Bee Appliqué and our new Button~Ups Mini Stick Friends Embroidery Collections. Did you know... you can use all of our button cover embroidery collections for things other than buttons!!! They are perfect little designs that fit in small places.
Look at our cute embroidered button cover Christmas card holder. It's so quick and easy to make using 3" wide grosgrain ribbon, clothes pins, cording, paper punches and embroidered Christmas button cover designs from www.HopeYoder.com.
Very Vera paper clip printable graphics (Found Here)
1 yard of cording (found in your local craft store)
Mod Podge Sparkle (found in your local craft store)
30" dowel rod (found in your local craft store)
Turn down one long edge of the grosgrain ribbon 3/4" and sew a casing for the cording.
Add a second ribbon over top so it just covers the previous stitching line and sew down both long edges of the coordinating ribbon. Use a match or lighter to seal the short ends so they won't ravel.
Use a needle and thread to wrap the cording around one end of the dowel and add a dab of glue for security. Allow to dry completely. Place the dowel through the casing and repeat to attach the cording to the other end.
Hello out there to all my embroidery friends. I've just posted this free embroidery on my webpage. Please help me spread the true meaning of Christmas with stitches by posting the link onto your Facebook wall or Pin It to your blog or Pinterest account.
Don't forget...if you download the free designs, please pin it or post it so you can help me spread the true meaning of Christmas. Got any parties or get togethers this time of year? Embroider it on a tea towel for an awesome hostess gift...
Thought I would share my first soap making project. I'm here at my sister-in-laws in Harrisonburg, VA and we took a trip to Michael's Craft store to purchase all of our supplies. The three of us (sister-in-laws) had so much fun making different soaps that we just couldn't stop so I took some photos and wrote down each recipe in case anyone else wants to make some quick gifts for Christmas. Doesn't it look good enough to eat? We found the candy cane soap recipe idea from this great blog. We wondered if the candy on top would make our hands sticky...and the answer is no. It's wonderful, kind of like a sugar scrub and soap all in one. Very girly and decadent!
Click here to see the original post. I have added more step by step photos and exact measurements to my post.
Candy Cane Soap Materials Needed
3 lbs ArtMinds Shea Butter Soap (purchase two 2lb packages)
peppermint oil (not extract)
red or pink ArtMinds soap colorant (or red food coloring)
2 glass bowls & 2 spatulas
1 box of 18 candy canes, crushed
Candy Cane Soap Recipe
Unwrap the candy canes and put them in a large plastic freezer bag and crush using either a rolling pin or a meat tenderizer as shown below and set aside.
Layer 1 ~ Cut one Shea butter package in half. Reserve half for the second layer. Break half of the package into individual blocks and put in a microwave safe bowl and melt at 30 second intervals, stirring with a spatula in between each cycle until completely melted.
Add 1/2 tsp of peppermint oil and 1/2 tsp of colorant to the melted soap and stir well. Pour into a loaf pan.
Layer 2 ~ Break reserve soap into individual blocks and repeat melting process as in first layer. Add 1/2 tsp of peppermint oil and stir well. Pour into loaf pan over first layer.
Layer 3 ~ Cut the second Shea butter package in half. Melt half of the package in the microwave and add 1/2 tsp of peppermint oil and 1/2 tsp of colorant to the melted soap and stir well. Pour into a loaf pan and let cool slightly so it starts to set up forming a "skin" on the top. Add the crushed peppermint stick to the top making sure the peppermint sinks into the top sightly so it will be partially "glued" into the soap mixture as it hardens.
Let it completely cool for 1 hour and then run a butter knife around the edge of the pan. If the soap is still warm let it cool completely before removing it from the pan.
Remove from the pan and place on parchment or wax paper. Slice into 1/2" pieces (making sure it's hardened and cooled completely) and then slice each piece in half. Wrap in cellophane bags or in parchment paper and tie with a pretty ribbon.
Mini Soap Recipes
We had so much fun making the candy cane soap that we decided to experiment with other scents adding some natural exfoliants. We used what we had on hand in the kitchen like flavored extracts and baking ingredients. The results were amazing. We are going to give these to friends and our children's school teachers as Christmas gifts.
Mix the ingredients and then add to silicone mini muffin pans. Let them cool, remove and wrap them in a cellophane bag or freezer paper.
Hint: We used Goat Milk Soap but you could substitute Shea butter soap. The individual blocks refer to the small blocks that are already separated in a 2lb package.
Vanilla Oatmeal Goat Milk Soap
3 individual blocks of ArtMind Goat Milk Soap
2 Tbs quick oats
1.5" tsp vanilla extract
Cinnamon Oatmeal Goat Milk Soap
3 individual blocks of ArtMind Goat Milk Soap
2 Tbs quick oats
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp cinnamon oil
Coconut Rum Goat Milk Soap ***smells like Pina Coladas
Do want to make something really awesome but don't know where to start?
Tired of the same old techniques and looking for something amazing, unique and practical?
Just wanted to let you know Kimberlee has written a new magazine article for Designs in Machine Embroidery Magazine using three of my products. This cute checker board is magnetic and sporting magnetic embroidered covered buttons. Play checkers anywhere, in style, and your buttons will stay put on the quilted board. How cool is that?
Buy your copy of the magazine wherever craft/sewing magazines are sold to get the low down on how to make it. Like cooking, the secrets is in the sauce or in this case it's in the magazine.
Here is the link to find all of my products Kimberlee has used to make this awesome project.
Learn to embroider on unstable sweater knit fabric. Click here to find the FREE PDF file for step-by-step directions from preparing the sweater for embroidery, stabilizers, interfacing and toppers. I made this sweater for my Mother-in-law for Christmas one year and am often asked how did I make it.
Feel free to post the link on your FaceBook or Pin It.
Smooth knit sweater (sample sweater is from Land's End at your local Sears store)
Tricot knit Interfacing
Sticky Stabilizer (such as Floriani Perfect Stick)
Clear wash away topper (such as Sulky Solvy)
Embroidery lettering program
Prep the inside of the sweater using a fusible tricot interfacing. Fuse large blocks on
the inside of the sweater fronts.
Use an embroidery software program to add names or cute phrases to each stick figure as shown and combine to
create a new design. Print a template using Floriani’s fusible template paper (templates are like large
stickers that will adhere right to the sweater without shifting or sliding during the hooping process).
Arrange the templates in a pleasing manner on the sweater fronts. For this project I left the templates on
the sweater until I was ready to embroider each design so I didn’t get confused & embroider the wrong
Hoop sticky stabilizer (& remove the paper) and lay the hoop over the grid marks on a large cutting mat,
aligning the grid with the placement marks on the hoop. Center the design matching up the placement
marks on the templates. Once the hoop is on the machine & the design is centered, remove the template
& lay a piece of Sulky Solvy on top of the hoop & baste the sweater to the hoop using an automatic basting
feature on your machine. If the sweater wants to pull up off the stabilizer when you remove the template,
place a few pins in the corner of the sweater through the sticky stabilizer (pins are underneath the
templates) before placing the hoop on the embroidery arm.
See another sweater I created which was featured in Designs in Machine Embroidery Magazine
My fabric finally arrived and I finished the sample of my Media Hipster which you can make while attending Hope Yoder's 2013 Embroidery & Embellishing Conference...Isn't it pretty. I love the Michael Miller Fabrics.
Click Here to view the conference registration form.
The hipster fits an iPad in a Zagg bluetooth case or portfolio style case and has a handy quilted pocket in the back to hold a cell phone and chargers. If you don't have an iPad (who doesn't have one these days, right...:) then this will be another one of your favorite purses. I made the entire flap in the embroidery hoop including the stippling, appliqué border with embroidered flowers, lace tatting, button loop closure and even the lining was sewn in the hoop. Yep that right, all in ONE hooping.
Sign up for my 2013 Embroidery & Embellishing Conference and get the embroidery designs, pattern and fabric for this project, along with the other 3 projects.
Click Here to view the conference registration form.
Well I bought a new die cutting machine; Silhouette Cameo and I'm having so much fun. Not cooking dinner anytime soon, just cutting anything that is not nailed down. Love the Silhouette Studio software that came with the machine and upgraded to Designer Edition so I could use my old svg files from my Cricut days (sold the Cricut in a heartbeat after using my Silhouette.)
Saw this post for making baby wipes where you had to cut the pattern out using their free template after cutting a large rectangle of vinyl with Silhouette. I thought to myself, "Why would I want to use scissors when my Silhouette can do it all?"
Download the PDF template from this link. Save it to your hard drive and open the file up in Silhouette Studio Designer Edition.
Select the "Trace" icon and select the PDF image. Select "Trace Outer Edge". Select PDF image and delete.
"Ungroup" the image and use the "Edit Point" icon to smooth out the curves and lines. This is what takes the most time, but is worth it.
After you think you have it looking good, cut your new pattern out using card stock. This is a great time to use ugly paper:)
Lay the pattern over your Huggies travel case and continue to tweak and edit the points/cutting cardstock/ editing points/cutting cardstock...Until you have a great pattern piece. It took me about 6 cardstock patterns until I got it nice and smooth. Don't forget to save using a new file name each time you make changes, just in case the previous attempt is better than your last.
Save the back and two fronts as three separate individual files.
In the Silhouette Online store, purchase design "Flower Multi Square"
Bring in the back template onto a new page. Then open "Flower Multi Square" file and select all/center. If necessary enlarge the "Flower Multi Square" design so it covers the entire template.
Select the "Flower Multi Square" designs and right click and then select "Make Compound Path".
On the right side of the screen, select the Modify icon then select "Crop". This should take away all the excess that is outside of the template back shape. Select all and then right click and select "Group".
Add the back outline template shape and select all. Select the "Align" icon and select "Center". This combines a cut line around the outer edge which is necessary when weeding away the extra vinyl. Save the file to your library.
Repeat the same steps to create a right front and a left front and save each file individually.
Bring all three files onto a new page and "Group". Save this as a new file. Your final file should look like this.
Practice on one of your least favorite vinyl colors so you can see if any changes need to be made.
When you are happy with the outcome, cut another design using your favorite color of vinyl and apply to the new unwrapped Huggies travel wet wipe case.
I'm so excited to announce I have teamed up with Riley Blake Designs and created a free project for their Pincushion of the Week Club. Click Here to travel to their webpage and print the free PDF for this project, compliments of www.HopeYoder.com. Please feel free to share on FB and Pinterest.
See the previous post to for detailed directions on adding binding to the edge. Happy Quilting!
As most of you know I travel and teach hands-on sewing workshops all over the country and through my travels I have found that many students find binding their weakest link in sewing. I designed this project for Riley Blake's Pincushion of the Week Club and decided I would make a free tutorial on how to make and add the binding to go around any project or quilt. There are many ways to add binding but I call this the "blonde" way; easy and do-able by most beginners.
Most quilts do not require the binding to be cut on the bias. Cut strips on the straight of grain. To achieve this fold the fabric in half matching up both selvage edges. Use a rotary cutter and ruler to cut the desired width of binding. For 1/4" finished binding I cut my fabric 2 1/8" wide. The extra 1/8" allows for the thickness and turn of the cloth giving a bit more fudge room.
Cut fabric on the straight of grain. If it necessary to piece multiple strips together to get enough length follow the directions below.
Joining Strips Together
Cut as many strips as necessary and place two strips right sides together so both edges hang off the ends as shown.
Sew from the upper left corner down to the lower right corner as shown and trim off the excess leaving a 1/4" seam allowance.
Press the seams flat, then open and fold in half lengthwise with wrong sides together. Press to form a crease along the fold line.
On one short end, apply a piece of 1/4" Steam A Seam 2 fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric by lightly pressing the paper side in place. Let cool and remove the release paper. Fold the short raw end under 1/4" and press with an iron. This will be your "START" end of your binding.
Pick an inconspicuous place to start the binding which is typically done in the back left (most people's eyes go for the center or right side hence starting in the opposite place most will see first.) Never start your binding in a corner!
Starting in the back left area, pin the binding so the raw edges are even with the quilt. I only pin a few inches to hold it in place while I start sewing then don't use pins any more. Use a scant 1/4" seam allowance and start sewing LEAVING 2" of the beginning UNSEWN! This leaves a space to tuck the end inside the starting point later on.
Turing Corners ~ Making Miters
Stitch towards the corner, stopping 1/4" away from the edge. Stop and clip threads and take the fabric out from underneath the presser foot so you can manipulate the binding.
Bring the excess binding that has not been sewn straight up so that the raw edges are even with the next side of your quilt, forming a straight long edge as shown. When you fold the binding up, this will naturally form a miter in the fabric. Make sure your fabric looks like this with all the RAW EDGES ALIGNED IN A STRAIGHT LINE AS SHOWN BELOW.
Hold your finger in the binding or use a pin to hold the binding in the miter area as your bring the raw edge of the binding down towards the other side of the quilt. Fold the binding making sure the folded edge at the top of the binding is even with the raw edge along the side you just finished sewing. Pin in place and make sure all raw edges are even and aligned with the quilt.
Start sewing 1/4" away from the corner as shown below.
To End The Binding
There are many different ways to end the binding but this is the easiest way or "blonde way" as I like to call it. Easy and works every time without much mental power:)
After sewing around all 4 corners as you approach the starting point, stop sewing 2" BEFORE YOU COME TO THE STARTING POINT.
Measure how much of the binding is needed to reach the starting point plus 1/2" of excess to slip inside of the folded edge on the start of the binding. Trim off the excess using scissors as shown.
Slip the raw edge of the ending into the beginning.
Add pieces of Steam A Seam 1/4" binding to the top and bottom of the ending binding and steam the junction together so the fusible web joins the two ends together.
Continue sewing the binding until you reach the beginning stitches and back stitch to lock your stitches.
Turing Binding To Wrong Side
Press the seam line of the binding and then press the binding up away from the quilt.
On the wrong side lightly iron Steam A Seam 2 inside the seam allowance along all 4 edges. Allow to cool and remove the release paper from the fusible web.
Wrap the binding around to the wrong side and gently pull it so it will go beyond the stitching line (this is why I cut my biding 2 1/8" wide instead of 2" wide.) Use glass head pins to pin it in place and then press with the tip of your iron to fuse the binding in place.
To form a pretty miter on the back, manipulate the corner until it looks nice, making sure you check it on the right side and then pin it in place. Use the tip of your iron to fuse the binding in place. You can add a pinch of fusible web shoving it into the corner if necessary as this will help hold the corner neat until its sewn.
From the right side stitch in the ditch. If you are not familiar with this term it means you are trying to sew in between the junction where the binding and the quilt top meet so the stitches won't show on either side, rather they get buried in between the two areas. Check the back to make sure the binding is getting caught in the seam line.
Please pin this post to your Pinterest page or share on your Facebook wall. Want a printer friendly version of the directions? Look in the green box and print a PDF file.